Jacob & Co.’s watchmakers and gem-setters have returned to an idea last tried in the 1820s and 1830s: diamonds set on the balance wheel.
Jacob & Co. today introduces the Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino, a unique piece. Its balance carries 54 brilliant-cut white diamonds, which Jacob & Co. calls a first in modern watchmaking.
Because the balance governs a watch’s rate, it was redesigned around the stones, and the brand says chronometric performance is not compromised. It beats at 3 Hz while the flying tourbillon turns every sixty seconds, so each diamond keeps catching the light. Inside the white gold case is the new self-winding calibre JCFA02, with 72 hours of power reserve; through the case back, its bridges carry another 234 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Around it, 366 pastel sapphires sit invisibly set across the case, dial, crown and buckle, with no metal visible on the surface. Neighbouring stones are deliberately unlike, green beside blue and lavender beside pink, though every stone shares the same lightness. The name recalls Arlecchino of the commedia dell’arte, and his costume of coloured lozenges: a pattern built once, for one collector.
The Basics
Brand: Jacob & Co.
Model: Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Baguette Pastel Arlequino
Reference: BT560.30.AC.UA.ABALA
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 11.61mm
Case material: 18K white gold; invisibly set with 194 baguette-cut sapphires (~11.03 ct) and 32 white diamonds (~1.67 ct); crown set with 12 sapphires (~1.08 ct) and one white diamond (~0.04 ct); sapphire crystal case back
Dial: Invisibly set with 139 baguette-cut sapphires (~6.05 ct) and 23 white diamonds (~0.81 ct); rhodium leaf hands
Water resistance: 30m
Strap: Alligator; 18K white gold tang buckle set with 21 baguette-cut sapphires (~1.52 ct)
Limited edition: Unique piece
The Movement
Calibre: JCFA02, self-winding
Functions: Hours, minutes
Winding: Self-winding; flying tourbillon with micro-rotor
Power reserve: 72 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Images courtesy of Jacob & Co.